Glycerin & Rosewater
| DISCLAIMER: These pages are presented solely as a source of INFORMATION and ENTERTAINMENT and to provide stern warnings against use where appropriate. No claims are made for the efficacy of any herb nor for any historical herbal treatment. In no way can the information provided here take the place of the standard, legal, medical practice of any country. Additionally, some of these plants are extremely toxic and should be used only by licensed professionals who have the means to process them properly into appropriate pharmaceuticals. One final note: many plants were used for a wide range of illnesses in the past, but be aware that many of the historical uses have proven to be ineffective for the problems to which they were applied. |
By themselves, oils and waxes will remain stable. It is the introduction of the herbal infusion, or aloe gel, or unsterilized water that presents the problem of mold and bacteria. It is also possible to make or purchase extracts of the herbs you wish to include and use those in your products, rather than an infusion. ALWAYS BOIL THE WATER AND STERILIZE YOUR CONTAINERS (since boiling water will destroy/melt some plastic containers, use alcohol to sterilize these). There are two natural preservatives which can stabilize your product. Tincture of Benzoin is available through your local pharmacy and has been used for a long time commercially. Gum benzoin, from which the tincture is made, is a gum resin from Asia. It is applied at the rate of 1 drop per ouce of product. Becoming more popular each year is grapefruit seed extract, available through herb supply outlets, and is applied at the same rate. Also known for its preservative qualities is vitamin E. It won't take the place of the benzoin tincture or grapefruit seed extract, but 200 to 400 I.U. per ounce of product will not only help out with longevity, it's also good for the skin.
When adding aloe to your product, be aware fresh aloe gel from a houseplant will develop mold quickly. It is better to purchase food grade aloe gel which has already been stabilized.
When a recipe calls for glycerin - it always means vegetable glycerin. At no time should you use any other type. It is always to be food grade vegetable glycerin.
Oils commonly used in cosmetic preparations are sweet almond, olive, safflower, peanut, corn, wheat germ, jojoba, and small amounts of vitamin E oil. Vitamin E can be purchased in gel caps which can then be pierced and the contents squeezed out. In the following recipes the ingredient lecithin refers to liquid lecithin. All lanolin used is anhydrous lanolin. Lanolin comes in liquid and anhydrous (water removed) forms.
One other ingredient you will require is beeswax. It melts at 148ºF, but the process goes more quickly if you first grate it. A hand held rotary grater with the large holes for grating makes short work of this.
Other tools which you will need are a blender, or mini food processor, or similar item which is capable of making mayonnaise, since the process of combining oils and water is similar. My personal favorite is a Black and Decker Handi-Mixer with a drink attachment. It's a lightweight hand-held unit that does the job well and with little to clean up afterward. You will also need a stainless steel or enamel double boiler. It is absolutely essential to melt the waxes and oils in the top portion of the double boiler over hot water in the bottom pan.
To make a mask, add distilled water, a few drops at a time, to a tablespoon or two of the oatmeal or almond powder until you have a paste. Spread on your face, avoiding the eye area, then sit back and rest until the mask dries. When ready, wet and wring a washcloth in water that is as comfortably warm as you can tolerate and place the cloth over your face for a few minutes to soften the mask. Then rinse your face clean with warm water and follow with a cool splash.
You can also purchase floral waters such as Lavender, Rose, or Orange to make the paste, or you could also use honey. Honey and oatmeal masks are often mentioned in very old herbal manuscripts. Whichever choice you make, a mask should be applied once a week to revive the skin by getting rid of the dead skin cells which tend to give one that chalky, just embalmed appearance.
| Procedure | |
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| Step One | Melt waxes, fats, liquid lecithin, cocoa butter (if used), and honey (if used) in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Watch that the mixture gets only warm enough to melt the contents. Beeswax should be gratd for easiest melting. Make sure all is blended well and then remove from heat. Allow to cool about a minute. To this add the vitamin E if it is used. Make sure all is well combined. |
| Step Two | In a mixer bowl or blender, add the water, glycerin and herb extract (if using), the tincture of Benzoin or grapefruit seed extract, and a few drops of essential oil if desired. |
| Step Three | While blender or mixer is operating, slowly drizzle the warm melted oils and waxes into the water mixture. It will become thick. The longer you blend, the fluffier it will become. It will appear to be a little 'loose' at this point, but will continue to harden as it comes to room temperature. Pour into a suitable jar and allow to sit on the counter for 20 to 30 minutes, then cap and store in the refrigerator. |
| 1/3 cup coconut oil 1/8 cup sweet almond oil 1/8 cup vegetable glycerin 2/3 cup rosewater (or sterile water) |
1 tbsp liquid lecithin 1/4 oz. grated beeswax 9 drops tincture of benzoin |
Follow directions as given in Procedure above. Shelf life is about one month.
| 1/4 cup rosewater 12 drops herbal extract (if desired) 1 tbsp aloe gel 1/8 cup sweet almond oil 1/2 tbsp peanut oil 1 tsp cocoa butter |
1/2 tbsp olive oil 1/4 tsp anhydrous lanolin 1/2 tbsp liquid lecithin 1/8 oz. grated beeswax 400 I.U. vitamin E 6 drops tincture of Benzoin |
Melt waxes, oils, cocoa butter, lanolin and lecithin and allow to cool a bit as per procedure (above). Place aloe gel in blender and whip for a bit. Add rosewater to aloe and blend. Stir tincture of benzoin (or grapeseed extract, if desired) and vitamin E into the warm oils. With blender running, slowly drizzle the oils into the aloe-water mix. Put up into suitable containers and store in refrigerator. Shelf life is about one month.
| 1/4 cup coconut oil 1/3 cup sweeet almond oil 3 oz. vegetable glycerin |
1/2 tbsp liquid lecithin 1/8 oz grated beeswax 8 drops tincture of benzoin |
Melt wax and oils in top of double boiler. Place glycerin in bottom of bowl or blender. Turn on machine and begin to drizzle the oil mix into the glycerin per procedure (above).
| 1/4 cup olive oil 1 tbsp coconut oil a walnut-sized piece of cocoa butter 1/2 tbsp liquid lecithin 1/8 oz bees wax ____________________________________________ 1200 IU vitamin E ____________________________________________ 1/3 cup boiled water 1/2 tbsp vegetable glycerin |
If you are not ready to make an extract, but would like to include herbs, simply replace the rosewater with herbal tea made from 1 tbsp of the ground herbs to 1 cup of distilled (or boiled) water. Use the same herbs listed in the Herbal Extract Recipe. Combine the herbs as listed, then powder enough in a coffee mill to make up 1 tbsp. Place in a bowl and pour 1 cup of water just off the boil over the herbs and allow to steep for 10 minutes, covered. Strain through a coffee filter and measure out the 1/4 cup of herb tea to replace the rosewater.
NOTE: If using the herb tea in place of the rosewater, you will not need to use the extract. You can also substitute the rosewater with distilled water to which 3 drops of essential oil of rose or lavender is added.
| 1/4 cup rosewater 12 drops herbal extract 1/2 tbsp vegetable glycerin 1/8 cup sweet almond oil 1/2 tbsp coconut oil 1/2 tbsp peanut oil |
1/4 tsp anhydrous lanolin 1/2 tbsp liquid lecithin 1 tsp cocoa butter (5 grams) 1/8 oz. grated beeswax 400 I.U. vitamin E . |
Add glycerin and extract (if used) to rosewater and blend. While blender is running, drizzle in the combined melted waxes and oils to which the vitamin E has been added (see procedure above). When well blended, transfer to a suitable container. Cover and refrigerate. Shelf life is about one month unless tincture of benzoin or grapefruit seed extract is used.
An easy variation (and richer for aged and thirsty skin) is to make it without the herbal tea or extract. Simply combine 1/3 cup sterile (boiled) water and 1/2 tbsp vegetable glycerin. Melt the oils, waxes and butters and proceed as per instructions. Use the following ingredients (makes a smaller batch which will last about 3 weeks to 1 month in the refrigerator): 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/2 tbsp coconut oil, 1/2 tbsp cocoa butter, 1/2 tbsp lecithin, 1/8 oz beeswax, 1200 IU Vitamin E.
Combine 1¼ oz. grated beeswax and 3/4 cup sweet almond oil (or olive oil) in the top of a double boiler. With water in the lower pan at a simmer, thoroughly melt ingredients together. Remove from heat and pour into suitable container(s). This recipe will fill two 3½ to 4 oz. containers. This allows one jar to be used 'as is' and the other to be used as a base for products you wish to make.
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1 Tbsp non-petroleum jelly lipstick the size of a small pea 1/2 tsp grated beeswax |
In the top of a double boiler, over barely simmering water, melt beeswax and jelly together till both are well combined. Add the piece of lipstick. Continue to add small amounts (if necessary) until the desired color is reached. Pour into a small lip balm tub or tube and allow to set up (see resources for obtaining hard-to-find herbalware). You can also improve the healing quality of this by adding the contents of one 400 IU capsule of vitamin E.
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1/2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 tbsp sweet almond oil pea-size piece of lipstick color 1 tsp grated beeswax 200 I.U. vitamin E |
NOTE: The difference between these two products is a matter of consistency and which one you prefer.
